Straight after I hit submit, spacebat of #emacs pointed out grep-use-null-device inside grep-host-defaults-alist which is populated by grep-compute-defaults in grep.el:548. From my understanding of that code, it's trying grep -nH ^English /usr/share/emacs/24.3/etc/HELLO on the remote host, which fails because emacs is not installed there, though GNU grep is and grep does support -H.